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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least trans-resveratrol and / or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative, and a filtering system comprising at least one long UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral screening agents and / or their mixtures. The invention also relates to a use of a filtering system comprising at least one long UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble organic UVB screening agents and mixed organic screening agents. UVA-UVB liposoluble, mineral filters and / or their mixtures to stabilize including photostabilize a composition comprising trans-resveratrol and / or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative.
    公开号:FR3034987A1
    申请号:FR1553346
    申请日:2015-04-15
    公开日:2016-10-21
    发明作者:Stephanie Cheilian；Sandrine Therouin-Koely；Catherine Socroun-Metivier
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The present invention relates to the field of compositions comprising trans-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of trans-resveratrol, in particular as an antioxidant agent. , anti-aging or depigmenting.
    [0002] Resveratrol is a polyphenol of the class of stilbenes that exists in a cis form and a trans form shown below. OH trans-resveratrol cis-resveratrol Trans-resveratrol is known to have many biological properties such as anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory or antitumor activity.
    [0003] However, trans-resveratrol is a photosensitive molecule that irreversibly transforms into its cis isomer under light exposure, whereas the trans isomer is the most active form. Thus, there remains a need to have a composition containing transreservatrol, stable in particular to light.
    [0004] The inventors have found that it is possible to obtain such a composition, by introducing at least one particular UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter into said composition. Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least trans-resveratrol and / or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative, and a filtering system. comprising at least one liposoluble long UVA filter, especially a 2-hydroxybenzophenone aminosubstituted compound and at least one UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble UVB organic screening agents and liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral filters and / or their mixtures. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention have an SPF greater than or equal to 25, preferably from 30 to 75, and a PPD greater than or equal to 8, preferably from 10 to 30.
    [0005] Preferably, trans-resveratrol or trans-resveratrol derivative is present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention is characterized in that the SPF / PPD ratio ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.5 to 4.5 and better still from 2 to 4.
    [0006] According to a second aspect, the invention relates to a process for stabilizing, in particular photostabilization, a composition comprising trans-resveratrol and / or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative comprising a step in which one adds to said composition a filtering system comprising at least one liposoluble long UVA filter (in particular an aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound) and at least one UV filter 10 chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble organic UVB screening agents, UVAUVB mixed organic liposoluble filters, mineral filters and / or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the SPF of said composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 25 and the PPD of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 8.
    [0007] The invention also relates to the use of a filtering system comprising at least one liposoluble long UVA filter (in particular an aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound) and at least one UV filter chosen from water-soluble organic UVA filters, organic screening agents and Water-soluble UVBs, liposoluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral filters and / or mixtures thereof, for stabilizing in particular light stabilizing a composition comprising trans-resveratrol and / or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative . This use comprising in particular the addition to said composition of said filter system in an amount such that the SPF of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 25 and the PPD of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 8. Surprisingly, the inventors have found that the trans-resveratrol present in the composition according to the invention was particularly stable after being exposed to light. By long UVA filter in the sense of the present invention is meant an organic compound filtering absorbing UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 300 and 400 nm and more particularly from 340 to 400 nm. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "derivative of trans-resveratrol" means the esters, glucosides and phosphates of trans-resveratrol. These compounds all have the same biological properties as trans-resveratrol and are trans-stereochemistry. Like trans-resveratrol, they are photosensitive and irreversibly transform into their cis isomer under light exposure. By "water-soluble organic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example under micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase. By "liposoluble organic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state or miscible in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example under micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase. In the remainder of the description by "trans-resveratrol" is meant transresveratrol or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative or a mixture of trans-resveratrol and trans-resveratrol derivative (s). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable" composition is intended to mean a composition in which the trans-resveratrol degrades little in particular under exposure to light, in particular by conversion into its cis isomer. Preferably, a stable composition according to the invention comprises at least 85% by weight of resveratrol, advantageously at least 90% by weight of resveratrol, in particular at least 95% by weight of resveratrol relative to the total weight of resveratrol initially introduced into the composition.
    [0008] By "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) within the meaning of the invention is meant the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB. The SPF value is the ratio of the minimum duration of sunburn to an antisolar composition to the one without a product. It is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter on the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without UV filter. This factor therefore concerns the effectiveness of the protection whose biological action spectrum is centered in the UVB and therefore, accounts for the protection with respect to this UV-B radiation. To characterize protection against UV-A, the PPD (Persistent 30 Pigment Darkening) method, which measures the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure of the skin to UV-A, is particularly recommended and used. . This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official testing procedure for UV-A labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry 35 Association Technical Bulletin, Measurement Standards for UVA Protection Efficiency, Issued November 21, 1995 and efective of January 1, 1996).
    [0009] 3034987 4 UVAppd UVA PPD (UVAppd) is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the UV-A radiation dose required to reach the UV filter pigmentation threshold (MPPDp) on the UV-A radiation dose. necessary to reach the threshold of pigmentation without UV filter (MPPDnp). The present application also relates, in another of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a composition comprising transresveratrol or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative as defined above, for fight against the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular induced by oxidative stress.
    [0010] Indeed, the oxidative stress is particularly related to external agents such as ultraviolet radiation, pollution, heat stress or various toxins such as chemical agents with which the skin may be in contact (tobacco, heavy metals, air pollutants , etc). In particular, the use according to the invention aims at attenuating the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the signs of cutaneous aging of actinic origin such as photo-aging. Among the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular induced by oxidative stress, in particular of actinic origin, mention is made in particular of a loss of firmness and / or of elasticity and / or of tonicity and / or of flexibility of the skin, the formation wrinkles and fine lines, expression wrinkles, especially at the level of the forehead and the intersuracillary space, wrinkles and / or periplical wrinkles, and / or relaxation at the level of the contour of the lips, in particular at the level of the white lip (area located between the upper lip and the nose), a dull aspect of the complexion, the papery aspect of the skin. This use will be particularly intended for people with mature skin, even very mature. By "mature skin" according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 40 years. By "very mature skin" according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 50 years, in particular at least 60 years, or even 65 years.
    [0011] The expression wrinkles are produced under the effect of the stress exerted on the skin by the skin muscles which allow mimicry. Depending on the shape of the face, the frequency of mimicry and possible tics, they can appear from childhood. Some environmental factors such as oxidative stress, sun exposure, and age do not interfere in their genesis but can dig them further and make them permanent. Expression lines are characterized by the presence of grooves on the periphery of the nasal orifices (nasolabial folds), the mouth (para-buccal wrinkles and so-called bitterness wrinkles) and the eyes (wrinkles). the crow's feet), around which are located the skin muscles, as well as between the eyebrows (wrinkles of the glabella or the lion) and on the forehead. In particular, it will seek to prevent and / or smooth forehead wrinkles and intersurillary space.
    [0012] The papery appearance of the skin is characterized by a change in the visual appearance, as well as the resistance to touch, of the skin. Specifically, the skin visually looks like a cigarette paper giving it an appearance similar to that of a papyrus leaf. In addition, when it is slightly pinched between the thumb and forefinger, the skin forms fine folds, acute and numerous having the appearance of a crumpled paper. Finally, the touch of the skin shows that its superficial parts are like floating on the deep parts, giving the skin, at the very advanced stage of papery appearance, the appearance of a crumpled paper. The papery appearance of the skin is visible on the face and even more characteristic on the back of the hands of the elderly. The compositions according to the invention for preventing and / or smoothing the expression lines will be applied to the face. The compositions according to the invention intended to prevent and / or treat the papery appearance of the skin will be applied in particular on the back of the hands. The compositions according to the invention intended to reduce the appearance and / or the visibility of the pores will be applied in particular at the level of the zone T (forehead, nose, cheeks, chin). The use of antioxidant active agents may be useful in anti-aging compositions or in depigmenting compositions. The use according to the invention may also be more particularly intended for people with oily skin.
    [0013] The compositions according to the invention may be makeup or care products for keratinous substances, in particular the skin. More specifically, the makeup products may be of the foundation type, blushers or eyeshadow, anti-ring products, blush, or a product for body makeup or skin coloring.
    [0014] The skincare products may be a protection, treatment or care composition for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for the great anatomical folds or for the body, for example, day creams, night creams sunscreen composition, protective body care milks, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, artificial tanning composition; or an aftershave composition.
    [0015] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the skin and / or its integuments intended to prevent and / or treat cutaneous aging, in particular induced by an oxidative stress comprising at least one step of applying to a skin and / or its integuments exhibiting signs of cutaneous aging induced by oxidative stress at least an effective amount of at least one composition according to the invention. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method of the skin and / or its integuments, aimed at protecting the skin and / or its integuments from the effects of oxidative stress, in particular the effects of UV radiation, and / or toxins. and / or pollution, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin and / or its integuments at least an effective amount of at least one composition according to the invention. The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application. By "skin" is meant the skin of the face and / or the body, the scalp and the semi-mucous membranes (lips). Preferably, it will be the skin of the face and / or body and / or lips.
    [0016] "Dander" means hair, hair, eyelashes, nails, and preferably hair. The term "oxidative stress" as used in this application covers all the damage caused in a subject by free radicals. The magnitude of the damage caused by this oxidative stress depends on how quickly the free radicals are created and then inactivated by antioxidants. TRANS-RESVERATROL Resveratrol exists naturally in its cis and trans form, but also in other forms such as a glucosylated form. It is present in many plants and fruits. It is found in particular in the knotweed of Japan (Fallopia japonica also known as Polygonum cupistadum or Reynoutria japonica) or in grapes such as those from the vine species Vitis vinifera. More particularly, for example, resveratrol is found in blackberries, wine or peanuts. In general, resveratrol is found in the following families of plants: Vitaceae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, Fabaceae, Pinaceae, Polygonaceae, Moraceae, Fagaceae, Liliaceae. . .
    [0017] The trans-resveratrol present in the composition according to the invention may be of synthetic, natural origin or may be in the form of a plant extract containing trans-resveratrol. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said trans-resveratrol and / or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0 to 10% by weight. , From 1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the purposes of the invention, the term "content" means active material. The present invention further provides a process for preparing said composition. Long Liposoluble UVA FILTERS According to the invention the composition comprises at least one long liposoluble UVA filter. More particularly, a 2-hydroxybenzophenone aminosubstituted compound will be used.
    [0018] The amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compounds according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I): R 1 R 3 (I) N R 2 in which: R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, denote a radical C1-C20 alkyl, C2-C20 alkenyl, C3-C10 cycloalkyl, C3-C10 cycloalkenyl or form, with the nitrogen atom with which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered ring; n is a number from 1 to 4; when n = 1, R 3 denotes a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 20 alkenyl radical, a C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl, a C 6 -C 12 cyclohexyl, a phenyl which may be substituted by O, N or S, an aminocarbonyl radical or a C 1 -C 5 alkylcarbonyl radical; When n = 2, R3 denotes an alkyl diradical, a cycloalkyl diradical, an alkenyl diradical or an aryl diradical or R3 with E form a diradical of formula (II): (CH) 2, rn-E (II) (CH2) m with a number from 1 to 3; When n = 3, R3 is an alkyl triradical; when n = 4, R3 is an alkyl tetraradical; E is -O-, or -N (R4) - or N; R4 is hydrogen, C1-C5 alkyl or C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl. Examples of C 1 -C 20 alkyl radicals which may be mentioned include: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 1-methylethyl, n-butyl, 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, 1,1-dimethylethyl, n-pentyl, 1-methylpropyl Methylbutyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-ethylpropyl, n-hexyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 1,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-methylpentyl, 2-methylpethyl entyl, 3-methylpantyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1,1-dimethylbutyl, 1,2-dimethylbutyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 3,3-dimethylbutyl, dimethylbutyl, 1-ethylbutyl, 2-ethylbutyl, 1,2,2-trimethylpropyl, 1-ethyl-1-methylpropyl, 1-ethyl-2-methylpropyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl , n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-nonadecyl or neicosyl. Examples of C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl radicals which may be mentioned include: cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, 1-methylcyclopropyl, 1-ethylcyclopropyl, 1-propylcyclopropyl, 1-butylcyclopropyl, 1-pentylcyclopropyl, 1-methyl-1 butylcyclopropyl, 1,2-dimethylcyclypropyl, 1-methyl-2-ethylcyclopropyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl or cyclodecyl. As C 3 -C 10 cycloalkenyl radicals having one or more double bonds, there may be mentioned: cyclopropenyl, cyclobutenyl, cyclopentenyl, cyclopentadienyl, cyclohexenyl, 1,3-cyclohexadienyl, 1,4-cyclohexadienyl, cycloheptenyl, cycloheptatrienyl, cyclooctenyl, 1,5 cyclooctadienyl, cyclooctatetraenyl, cyclononenyl or cyclodecenyl. Examples of a 5- or 6-membered ring formed by the radicals R 1 and R 2 with the nitrogen atom include, in particular, pyrrolidine or piperidine.
    [0019] A compound of formula (I) with n = 1 very particularly preferred is n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate of formula (a): such as the product sold under the name "UVINUL A Plus ®" by BASF. A compound of formula (I) with n = 2 very particularly preferred is the derivative (2- {4- [2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxy-enzoyl) -benzoyl] -piperazine-1-carbonyl. pheny1) - (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxy-phenyl) -methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) of formula (b): 10 / NN, (b) which is described in patent application WO 2007071584. This compound is advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 μm) obtainable for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and more particularly in the form of aqueous dispersion.
    [0020] The compounds of formula (I) as defined above are known per se and their structures and their syntheses are described in patent applications EP-A-1046391, EP1133980, DE10012408 and WO 2007071584. The filter (s) UVA-long liposoluble, in particular the aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compounds are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at contents which preferably vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25 to at 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0021] Additional UV FILTERS other than UVA-long filters As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional UV-screening agent chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, water-soluble UVB organic screening agents and liposoluble organic UVB screening agents. , the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, the mineral filters and / or their mixtures. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV filter 10 chosen from water-soluble organic UVB filters. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV filter chosen from liposoluble organic UVB screening agents. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV filter chosen from the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents.
    [0022] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and optionally at least one mineral filter. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter, at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter and at least one water-soluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter. UVA Filters The UVA filter (s) according to the present invention may be selected from the following filters. 1) Fat-soluble UVA Filters Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: 3034987 11-Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc .; Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane; Aminobenzophenones: 5-2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate benzoate sold especially under the trade name "Uvinul A +" by BASF; Anthranilic derivatives: - Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by SYMRISE; 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene; Merocyanine Derivatives: - Octy 1-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate; 2) Water-soluble UVA Filters - Camphor derivatives such as Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex, - Bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323, and US 2,463,264 and more particularly the compound Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazo tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan AP" by SYMRISE; According to a preferred embodiment, said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is chosen from water-soluble camphor derivatives and their mixtures. More particularly, said at least one UVA filter is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20%, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. UVB Filters The UVB filter (s) according to the present invention may be selected from the following filters. 1) Liposoluble UVB Filters 3034987 12 Para-aminobenzoates: - Ethyl PABA; - Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA; Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 from ISP); Salicylic Derivatives: Homosalate sold in particular under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries; - Ethylhexyl salicylate sold in particular under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" by SYMRISE; 10 - Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name "DIPSAL" by SCHER; - TEA Salicylate and under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS" by SYMRISE; Cinnamates - Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL MCX" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate; - Isoamyl methoxy cinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by SYMRISE; Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate; 20 - Cinnoxate; - Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate; Derivatives of 13,13'-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF; Ethylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF; Derivatives of benzylidene camphor: - 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD" by CHIMEX; - Methylbenzylidene camphor sold in particular under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; - Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SW" by CHIMEX; Triazine derivatives: 3034987 13 - Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF; - Diethylhexyl butamido triazone sold in particular under the trade name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 3V; 5 - 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine; 2,4,6-tris (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4'-amino benzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine; The symmetrical triazine filters described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" document IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US ( September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (in particular 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine ) and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, these last two filters being described in BEIERSDORF applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992, WO 2006/034985). Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Derivatives of benzalmalonate: Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate function, such as Polysilicone-15 sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL SLX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate; 2) Water-soluble UVB Filters The following p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives: PABA, Glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA sold in particular under the trademark Uvinul P25 by BASF. - Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, - Ferulic acid, - Salicylic acid, - DEA methoxycinnamate, Benzylidene camphor Sulfonic acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL" by CHIMEX, 3034987 14 - Benzalkonium Methosulfate camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SO" by CHIMEX. In particular, said at least one water-soluble UVB filter is selected from Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid.
    [0023] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 8%, in particular from 1 to 5%, relative to the total weight. of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, said at least one UVB filter included in a composition according to the invention is a liposoluble UVB filter.
    [0024] In particular, said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from salicylic derivatives, cinnamates, 13, 13'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives and mixtures thereof. Preferably, said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof. More particularly said liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl salicylate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20%, in particular from 1 to 15%, and preferably from 1 to 15%. , 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a variant of the invention, said organic filter system used in the invention comprises one or more mixed filter (s) UVA-UVB. Mixed UVA - UVB filters 25 Said at least one mixed UVA-UVB filter can be chosen from the following filters. 1) Liposoluble mixed UVA and UVB filters Derivatives of benzophenone - Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL 30 400" by BASF; Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF; - Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul M40" by BASF; - Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; - Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-10; Benzophenone-11; 5 - Benzophenone-12; Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: - Drometzole Trisiloxane sold in particular under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or manufactured under the name "Mexoryl XL" by the company Chimex; Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form, for example under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion, especially under the trade name "TINOSORB M" by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS; Bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold in particular under the trade name "TINOSORB S" by CIBA GEIGY; Benzoxazole derivatives: - 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5- triazine sold in particular under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. 2) Mixed UVA and UVB water-soluble filters Derivatives of benzophenone containing at least one sulphonic radical such as benzophenone-4 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul MS 40 by BASF, Benzophenone-5, and 25-Benzophenone-9. Preferably, said at least one mixed UVA-UVB filter according to the invention is a fat-soluble filter. In particular, said mixed UVA-UVB filter is chosen from phenyl benzotriazole derivatives and bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, more preferably it is chosen from trisiloxane drometrizole, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 16%, in particular from 1 to 15%, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention is characterized in that it comprises a 2-hydroxybenzophenone aminosubstituted compound, at least one filter selected from terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to a first preferred variant, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises the aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound, ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150), Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), phenylbenzimidazole, ethylhexyl salicylate with or without TiO2 treated or untreated on the surface. According to a second preferred variant, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises the aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, drometrazole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), with or without TiO2 treated or untreated on the surface. More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises the following UV filter mixtures by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.1 to 3% of ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150), from 0.5 to 6 % Drometzole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), 5 to 15% Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), 1 to 5% ethylhexyl salicylate, 0.5 to 5 phenylbenzimidazole, and 2 to 8% of TiO 2 treated or untreated in surface by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; 4 to 10% of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2 to 6% of Drometzole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), 0.2 to 3% of Bisethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S), 5 to 15% of Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), and 2 to 8% TiO 2 treated or untreated on the surface. ADDITIVES The composition according to the invention may further comprise additives such as, for example, inorganic filters, active agents, fillers, fats, polymers, silicones. Inorganic Filters (or Minerals) The inorganic filters are chosen from coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments whose average primary particle size is preferably between 5 nm and 100 nm (preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm), for example titanium oxide pigments (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se. The pigments can be coated or uncoated. The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds as described for example in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate. In a known manner, the silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, essentially consisting of repeating main patterns in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The term "silicones" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes. The silicones used for coating the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. More preferably still, the silicones are selected from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydro-genosiloxanes. Of course, the metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones, may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
    [0025] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with silica, such as the product "Sunveil" from the company IKEDA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" from the company Merck - silica and iron oxide such as that the product "SUNVEIL F" from the company IKEDA, 3034987 18 - silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia, - alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 5 (A)" ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4 "from KEMIRA, - alumina and aluminum stearate such as the product" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from the company TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W "," Solaveil CT 100 "and" Solaveil CT 200 "from the company UNIQEMA, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product" MT-100 AQ "of the company TAYCA, alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from TAYCA, iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" from the company TAYCA, 15 - zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR351" from TAYCA, - silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS "," MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS "or" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS "from the company TAYCA, 20-silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product" STT-30 -DS "of the company TITAN KOGYO, - silica and treated with a silicone such as the product" UV-TITAN X 195 "KEMIRA society, or product SMT-100 WRS TAYCA society. of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 25 (S)" from the company ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262" from the company KEMIRA, triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65 -S "from the company TITAN KOGYO, - stearic acid such as the product" TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C) "from the company ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W " from the company TAYCA.
    [0026] Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane and whose average elementary particle size is between 25 and 40 nm, such as that sold under the trade name. "T 805" by the company Degussa Silices, the TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and whose average size of the elementary particles is 21 nm such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by CARDRE, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 25 nm, such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR 10 TECHNIQUES. Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the WACKHER company under the name "Transparent Titanium Oxide PW", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ". The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; Those marketed under the name "Nanox" by Elementis; those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies; The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those sold under the name Z-Cote HP1 by the company Sunsmart (dimethicone-coated ZnO); those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate); those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogeniloxane; ); Those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkylphosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the name "SPD-Z 1" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / copolymer PVP-hexadecene / methicone); those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold, for example, under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE POULENC. Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ," NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name" TY-220 ".
    [0027] The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL", or by the company BASF under the name "OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON". Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / cerium-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL" A ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261 "sold by the company KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211" sold by the company KEMIRA 30. Composite Particles The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as inorganic filters, composite particles.
    [0028] The composite particles usable according to the present invention comprise a matrix and an inorganic UV filter. The matrix comprises one or more organic and / or inorganic materials. The inorganic UV filter is generally chosen from metal oxides.
    [0029] According to a preferred variant, the matrix consists essentially of organic and / or inorganic material. The inorganic materials that can be used in the matrix according to the present invention are chosen from the group formed by mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass, calcium carbonate, barium sulphate hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminum oxide, aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clays, synthetic clays and mixtures thereof. The organic materials that can be used to form the matrix are chosen from the group formed by poly (meth) acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polyhydroxyalkanoates, polycaprolactams, poly (butylene) succinates, polysaccharides, polypeptides and polyvinylalcohols. , polyvinyl resins, fluoropolymers, waxes, polyesters, polyethers, and mixtures thereof. The inorganic UV filters useful in the composite particle are selected from metal oxides. Preferably, these metal oxides are selected from titanium dioxide TiO 2, zinc oxide ZnO, and iron oxide FeO. In a particularly preferred manner, the inorganic UV filter is TiO2. These metal oxides may be in the form of particles of average size generally less than 0.2 μm. Advantageously, the TiO 2 particles used have an average size of less than or equal to 0.1 μm. These metal oxides can also be in the form of layers, preferably multilayer average thickness generally less than 0.2 lm. Preferably, the content of composite particles of the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 to 70%, preferably 1.5 to 45%, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. cosmetic. The composite particles that can be used according to the invention are preferably spherical. They can be hollow, smooth, rough, or porous.
    [0030] When the composite particles are in spherical form, they are characterized by an average diameter of between 0.1 μm and 30 μm, preferably between 0.2 μm and 20 μm and more preferably between 0.3 μm and 10 μm. pm, advantageously between 0.5 iam and 10 pm
    [0031] By "spherical" it is meant that the particle has a sphericity index, i.e. the ratio of its largest diameter to its smallest diameter, less than 1.2. Composite particle shapes According to a first variant, the composite particles contain a matrix comprising an organic and / or inorganic material in which inorganic UV filter particles are included. Preferably, the composite particles consist of a matrix comprising an organic and / or inorganic material in which particles of inorganic UV filter are included. According to this embodiment, the matrix has inclusions and inorganic UV filter particles are placed in the inclusions of the matrix.
    [0032] Preferably, the composite particles are spherical and have inclusions in which particles of inorganic UV filter are placed. By way of composite particles corresponding to this variant, mention may be made of the Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 products marketed by SUNJIN CHEMICAL. These spherical composite particles of average size between 2 and 7 μm are formed of TiO 2 encapsulated in a silica matrix. According to a second variant, the composite particles contain a matrix made of an organic and / or inorganic material covered with at least one inorganic UV filter layer that can be connected to the matrix by means of a binder. According to this second variant, the matrix particles are preferably spherical in shape. According to this second variant, the average thickness of the inorganic UV filter layer is generally about ten nanometers. The average thickness of the inorganic UV filter layer is advantageously between 101 and 0.2 μm, preferably between 10 -2 and 0.2 μm.
    [0033] According to a third variant, the composite particles contain an inorganic UV filter coated with at least one layer of an organic and / or inorganic material. According to this third variant, the particles of inorganic UV filter are characterized by an average elementary size generally between 101 and 0.2 μm. Advantageously, the particles of metal oxides used have a mean elementary size of between 10 -2 and 0, The matrix may be one or more organic or inorganic materials. It can then be a continuous phase of materials such as an alloy, that is to say a continuous phase in which the materials are no longer dissociable, or a discontinuous phase of materials, for example consisting of an organic or inorganic material coated with a layer of another organic or inorganic material different. According to a variant, in particular when the composite particles comprise a matrix covered with a UV filter layer, the composite particles may furthermore be covered with an additional coating, in particular chosen from biodegradable or biocompatible materials, lipid materials such as by Examples are surfactants or emulsifiers, polymers, and oxides. The composite particles used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 μm, preferably between 0.5 and 20 μm and more preferably between 0.3 and 10 μm, advantageously between 0.5 and 10 μm. Preferably, the UV filter used in the composite particle is TiO 2 or a mixture of TiO 2 and ZnO. Preferably, the matrix of the spherical composite particle contains a material or a mixture of materials chosen from: - SiO 2, - polymethyl methacrylate, - copolymers of styrene and an alkyl (meth) acrylate derivative in Cl / C5, polyamides such as nylons. By way of composite particles corresponding to this variant, mention may be made of the Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 products marketed by SUNJIN CHEMICAL. These spherical composite particles of average size between 2 and 7 μm are formed of TiO 2 encapsulated in a silica matrix. The following particles may also be mentioned: spherical composite particles of average size between 4 and 8 μm, containing TiO 2 and SiO 2 with the trade name Eospoly TR marketed by CREATIONS COLORS, 30-composite particles containing TiO 2 and a matrix of styrene / alkyl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Eospoly UV TR22 HB 50 by the company Creations Couleurs, 3034987 24 - Composite particles containing TiO2 and ZnO and a PMMA matrix of the trade name Sun PMMA-T50 marketed by the company SUNJIN CHEMICAL. Among the composite particles that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of the spherical composite particles containing TiO 2 and SiO 2 under the tradename STM ACS-0050510, supplied by the company JGC Catalysts and Chemical. Preferably, the inorganic filters are chosen from titanium dioxide, optionally coated with aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid, titanium dioxide optionally coated with stearic acid and alumina, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the at least one inorganic filter is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight. by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and in particular from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions in accordance with the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoam agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient normally used in the art. cosmetic and / or dermatological. Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol or hexylene glycol.
    [0034] As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as Poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPSe" (name CTFA: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 sold by the company SEPPIC 35 (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC; 3034987 25 cellulosic derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and especially gums such as Xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. Lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include synthetic polymers. such as poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name "INTELIMER IPA 5" 13-1 "and" INTELIMER IPA 13-6 "by Landec or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as products sold under the name of Bentone. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound or compounds mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged. The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can be in particular in the form of direct emulsion, inverse or multiple (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or E / H / E). They may optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of a spray. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion and more particularly oil-in-water emulsions. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsions may also contain other types of stabilizers, for example fillers, gelling or thickening polymers. Exemplary emulsifying surfactants for the preparation of W / O emulsions include, for example, alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as dimethicone and PEG / polypropylene glycol (PPG) 18/18 dimethicone, sold under the name "X-22-6711D" by Shin Etsu, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters or emulsifying silicone elastomers such as dimethicone / cross-linked dimethicone polymer / PEG-10/15 sold under the name "KSG-210".
    [0035] As alkylated esters of polyol, polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI may be mentioned in particular. Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
    [0036] Examples of O / W emulsions that may be mentioned, as emulsifiers, are nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; the fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular the alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with alcohol; cetostearyl, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by Seppic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778. The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting its scope.
    [0037] In the description and examples, the percentages are percentages by weight. The ingredients are mixed in the order and under the conditions readily determined by those skilled in the art. EXAMPLES Example 1: Compositions in accordance with the invention The compositions are prepared by mixing the following ingredients: IncI name Example 1 (% by weight Example 2) (% by weight) 3034987 27 INCI name Example 1 (% by weight) Example 2 (% by weight) Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 Tocopherol 0.5 0.5 Triethanolamine 2.5 1.7 Preservative qs qs Sodium hyaluronate 0.001 0.001 Dicapryl carbonate 3 Cetyl alcohol 0.7 0.7 Glycyrrhizate 0.001 Tromethamine 1 , 0.33 Resveratrol 0.25 0.25 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -2-benzyl benzoate ("Uvinul A Plus®" from BASF) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.1 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Ethylhexyl salicylate (NEO HELIOPAN 5 OS by SYMRISE) Ethylhexyl triazone (UVINUL T 150 from BASF) 1 5 Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid 12 (MEXORYL SX) 7 5 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2 Drometrizole trisiloxane (MEXORYL XL) 1 6 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 15 triazine Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum 4 hydroxide (and) stearic acid Oxyd Titanium encapsulated in 6 microspheres of silica (SUNSIN SUNSIL TIN 50) Carrragonian 1 Xanthan gum 0.1 Carbomer 0.4 0.4 Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0.2 ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM 0.2 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER Dimethicone 2 CS 4 Dimethicone ( DOW CORNING TORAY 3 SH200 C FLUID 5CS from Dow Corning) 3034987 28 INCI name Example 1 (% by weight) Example 2 (% by weight) DIMETHICONE (BELSIL DM 350 from 0 5 WACKER) 0 5 Ethanol 7 3 Glycerin 9,15 4 Glycols 4 7.34 Stearic acid 2 2 Potassium cetyl phosphate 1 1 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate 1.5 1.5 Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate 1 Water Qsp100% Qsp100% The emulsions of Examples 1 and 2 are fine, homogeneous, brilliant, smooth and stable over time. Residual% trans-resveratrol was measured: Compositions according to the invention 1 2 SPF> 50> 50 PPD 20> 20 Ratio 36 22 SPF / PPD% residual in 100 96 trans-resveratrol (1) (1) Percent Resveratrol residual was measured after exposure of the composition at 5 J / cm 2 UV, which corresponds to a daily dose. The two compositions according to the invention have a residual percentage of resveratrol after exposure of the composition to 5 J / cm 2 of UV, very high which means that the latter degrades very little in contact with daylight.
    权利要求:
    Claims (44)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least trans-resveratrol and / or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative, and a filtering system comprising at least one long, liposoluble UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter chosen among water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral screening agents and / or mixtures thereof.
    [0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that said composition having an SPF greater than or equal to 25 and a PPD greater than or equal to 8.
    [0003]
    3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said trans-resveratrol and / or trans-resveratrol derivative (s) is present in a content of from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight. preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0004]
    4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the ratio SPF / PPD is from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.5 to 4.5 and better from 2 to 4.
    [0005]
    5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the additional UV filter (s) are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and optionally at least one filter. mineral.
    [0006]
    6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the or additional UV filters are selected from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
    [0007]
    7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the additional UV filter (s) are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
    [0008]
    8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the additional UV filter (s) are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter, at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB and at least one water-soluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
    [0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is chosen from fat-soluble derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, water-soluble derivatives of camphor and mixtures thereof.
    [0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid and mixtures thereof.
    [0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 3034987 30
    [0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is chosen from salicylic derivatives, cinnamates, 13, 13'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives and their mixtures. . 5
    [0013]
    13. The composition of claim 12, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof.
    [0014]
    14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1, 7, 8, 12, 13, characterized in that the said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20%, in particular from 1 to at 15% and preferably from 1.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0015]
    15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is chosen from phenyl benzotriazole derivatives and bis-resorcinyl triazines derivatives, preferably from drometrizole trisiloxane, bis -ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
    [0016]
    16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1, characterized in that the said at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20%, in particular from 1 to 15%. and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0017]
    17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said filtering system comprises at least one filter selected from terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid, drometrizole trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.
    [0018]
    18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion and more particularly oil-in-water emulsions.
    [0019]
    19. A process for stabilizing, in particular photostabilization, a composition comprising trans-resveratrol and / or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative comprising a step in which a filter system 30 comprising at least one long, liposoluble UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble UVB organic screening agents, liposoluble UVAUVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral screening agents and / or their mixtures, preferably from an amount such that the SPF of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 25 and the PPD of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 8.
    [0020]
    20. The method of claim 19, characterized in that the or additional UV filters are selected from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and optionally at least one mineral filter. 40
    [0021]
    21. Method according to one of claims 19 or 20, characterized in that the or additional UV filters are selected from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter. 3034987 31
    [0022]
    22. Method according to one of claims 19 to 21, characterized in that the additional UV filter (s) are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB, and optionally at least one mineral filter. 5
    [0023]
    23. Method according to one of claims 19 to 22, characterized in that the one or more additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter, at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB and at least one water-soluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter. 10
    [0024]
    24. Method according to any one of claims 19 to 23, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is selected from fat-soluble derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, water-soluble derivatives of camphor and mixtures thereof.
    [0025]
    25. The process according to claim 19, wherein said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid and mixtures thereof.
    [0026]
    26. Method according to any one of claims 19 to 25, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.
    [0027]
    27. Process according to any one of claims 19 to 26, characterized in that the said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is chosen from salicylic derivatives, cinnamates, 13, 13'-diphenylacrylate derivatives and triazine derivatives. and their mixtures.
    [0028]
    28. Method according to any one of claims 19 to 27, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof. 25
    [0029]
    29. Method according to any one of the preceding claims 19 to 28 characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20%, in particular from 1 to 15% and preferably from 1.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0030]
    30. Process according to any one of claims 19 to 29, characterized in that the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is chosen from phenyl benzotriazole derivatives and bis-resorcinyl triazines derivatives, preferably from drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
    [0031]
    31. A process according to any one of claims 19 to 30, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20%, in particular from 1 to 15%. %, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0032]
    32. Use of a filtering system comprising at least one liposoluble long UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble organic UVB screening agents, and UVA-mixed organic screening agents. Liposoluble UVBs, mineral filters and / or their mixtures for stabilizing in particular light stabilizing a composition comprising trans-resveratrol and / or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative.
    [0033]
    33. Use according to claim 19, characterized in that the additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and optionally at least one mineral filter.
    [0034]
    34. Use according to one of claims 19 or 20, characterized in that the or additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter. .
    [0035]
    35. Use according to one of claims 19 to 21, characterized in that the additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and at least one organic filter. 10 liposoluble UVB, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
    [0036]
    36. Use according to one of claims 19 to 22, characterized in that the one or more additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter, at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB and at least one water-soluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
    [0037]
    37. Use according to any one of claims 19 to 23, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is selected from fat-soluble derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, water-soluble derivatives of camphor and mixtures thereof.
    [0038]
    38. Use according to any one of claims 19 to 24, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid and mixtures thereof.
    [0039]
    39. Use according to any one of claims 19 to 25, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition. 25
    [0040]
    40. Use according to any one of claims 19 to 26, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from salicylic derivatives, cinnamates, derivatives 13, 13'-diphenylacrylate, triazine derivatives and their mixtures.
    [0041]
    41. Use according to any one of claims 19 to 27, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof.
    [0042]
    42. Use according to any one of the preceding claims 19 to 28 characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20%, in particular from 1 to 15% and preferably from 1.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 35
    [0043]
    43. Use according to any one of claims 19 to 29, characterized in that the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is chosen from phenyl benzotriazole derivatives and bis-resorcinyl triazines derivatives, preferably from drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
    [0044]
    44. Use according to any one of claims 19 to 30, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20%, in particular from 1 to 15%. %, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3034987B1|2018-08-24|
    CN107787225A|2018-03-09|
    WO2016166345A1|2016-10-20|
    EP3283047A1|2018-02-21|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    US20090286887A1|2004-06-15|2009-11-19|Basf Se|Stabilisation of colorants in cosmetic and dermatological preparations|
    WO2012069363A1|2010-11-22|2012-05-31|Dsm Ip Assets B.V.|Use of uv-filters to stabilize resveratrol in topical cosmetic compositions|
    EP2522329A1|2011-05-09|2012-11-14|DSM IP Assets B.V.|Use of resveratrol and arbutin|
    FR2999911A1|2012-12-21|2014-06-27|Oreal|COMPOSITION BASED ON TRANS-RESVERATROL OR A TRANS-RESVERATROL DERIVATIVE.|
    FR3001141A1|2013-01-21|2014-07-25|Oreal|Composition, useful in non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring and/or making up of keratin material e.g. skin, comprises oil phase, merocyanine compounds, triazine UVB filters and organic UV filter different from merocyanine in support|
    US10729633B2|2018-03-29|2020-08-04|L'oreal|Methods for boosting UVA photo-protection using antioxidants|
    JP2022503542A|2018-08-23|2022-01-12|ザ プロクター アンド ギャンブル カンパニー|Skin care composition|
    FR3104422A1|2019-12-17|2021-06-18|L'oreal|Cosmetic composition comprising water-soluble or water-dispersible UV filters, hydrophilic thickeners and hydrophilic surfactants|
    法律状态:
    2016-03-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-10-21| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20161021 |
    2017-03-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2018-03-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2020-03-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2021-03-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1553346A|FR3034987B1|2015-04-15|2015-04-15|COMPOSITION BASED ON TRANS-RESVERATROL OR A TRANS-RESVERATROL DERIVATIVE|
    FR1553346|2015-04-15|FR1553346A| FR3034987B1|2015-04-15|2015-04-15|COMPOSITION BASED ON TRANS-RESVERATROL OR A TRANS-RESVERATROL DERIVATIVE|
    CN201680035158.XA| CN107787225A|2015-04-15|2016-04-15|Composition based on trans-resveratrol or by trans-resveratrol derivative|
    PCT/EP2016/058452| WO2016166345A1|2015-04-15|2016-04-15|Composition made from trans-resveratrol or from a trans-resveratrol derivative|
    EP16719047.9A| EP3283047A1|2015-04-15|2016-04-15|Composition made from trans-resveratrol or from a trans-resveratrol derivative|
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